I’ll admit it – I’m addicted! I need my fix and I’ll go to great lengths to accomplish this. Even if it’s to the detriment of other areas in my life.
Family gatherings, birthdays, christenings, weddings – you name it, I’ll sack it all off in favour of that buzz, that rush, that sensation of adrenaline surging through my veins…
It’s what keeps me going. It’s what keeps me ticking. It’s who I am. It’s what makes me, ‘me’.
If I have to go cold turkey for any length of time then I can just about cope – for a few days at least. Then I start getting cranky.
Scratching the itch
Anyone who knows me realises that when my mood darkens it’s time to get me back to a place where I can once again scratch that itch and return to my normal self.
Fortunately I have an understanding wife, a tolerant family and friends who all realise that without my daily H2O dose I would be an irritable human being.
When you sit back and think about it the whole situation appears ludicrous.
Sliding sideways on a board (of any description) is a pastime that shouldn’t invoke so much emotion or instil such a feeling that makes you want to indulge again and again – but it does.
The circle is never ending. The more you surf/windsurf/SUP/kitesurf/snowboard, the more you want to do it. The more you want to do it, the more addicted you become – and so and so on…
No bad thing
As much as surfers can appear to be selfish the plus points far out way the negatives.
Living a healthy lifestyle where physical exercise plays an important part in your everyday life should be embraced – if it’s immense fun to boot then all the better.
In an age where we spend ever increasing amounts of time in front of our computer screens, and sitting on our backsides, anything that gets us out into the open and experiencing Mother Nature is no bad thing.
I’m not suggesting that everybody should go out and throw themselves in the sea with a surfboard under their arm, but just getting out of the office and into the wide open should be encouraged.